The queue starts at seven, an hour before the doors open. People come for one loaf, a dark round with a crust that crackles as it cools. It takes three days to make.
Day one: the starter
Flour, water and a spoonful of the old starter, fed and left overnight. The baker calls it the only employee who has never missed a shift.
Day two: the long rise
The dough is mixed, folded by hand every hour, then left in the cold for a night. Time does the work that yeast alone cannot: flavour, structure and that slightly sour depth.
Day three: the oven
Shaped at dawn, baked hot and dark. "Most people underbake bread," she says. "The colour is the flavour."
