The market appears with the first frost and disappears in January. For six weeks the square smells of cinnamon, smoke and wet wool.
Who sells here
Knitters from the hills, a cheese maker who comes down once a year, a family that has roasted chestnuts on the same corner for three generations.
What to buy
Something warm you will actually wear. The hats are made by hand and sold out by the second weekend.
When to go
Early evening on a weekday, when the lights come on and the crowds are still at work.
