The rule was simple. At every junction, take the smaller road. It sounds romantic. In practice it means a lot of reversing, several dead ends and one memorable afternoon in a farmyard.
Maps are better than phones
A phone shows you where you are. A paper map shows you what you are missing. Spread out on the bonnet, it turns every lunch stop into a planning meeting.
Where we ended up
Nowhere famous. A village with one café, a beach without a name, a guesthouse whose owner insisted on breakfast at seven. All of it better than anything we would have booked.
The return trip
We took the motorway home, in a third of the time. Nobody remembers a single thing about it.