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A white lane with a pink flowering tree and café chairs
Photo by Johnny Africa / Unsplash

Slow days in the Cyclades

No car, no plan, one ferry a day. What happens when an island decides the pace for you.

The ferry arrives once a day, a little before noon, and leaves an hour later. Everything on the island seems to be organised around that hour: the bakery opens before it, the café fills after it, the harbour empties again by two.

An island without a car

There is one road and it stops at the beach. Everything else is a white lane too narrow for anything wider than a donkey or a delivery tricycle. After a day you stop missing the car. After three you stop checking the time.

Blue and white chairs along a narrow whitewashed street
Chairs come out at five, when the lanes fall into shade. Photo by Despina Galani / Unsplash

Mornings are for walking to the far end of the island before the heat. Afternoons are for doing nothing in particular, which turns out to need some practice.

Eating with the timetable

The fish arrives with the boat, so lunch is late and dinner is later. Nobody books. You sit down, someone brings bread, and the menu is whatever came in that morning.

Tables and chairs on a stone patio beside the sea
Lunch on the harbour, timed to the ferry. Photo by Johnny Africa / Unsplash

What you take home

Not much, if you are lucky. A habit of walking after dinner, maybe. A suspicion that most plans are optional. And the memory of a pink tree over a white lane, which no photograph quite gets right.

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Tomas Berg

Travel and food writer. Prefers trains to planes and markets to restaurants.